We slept pretty well, not having gone to bed until 1 to 2 am. We had breakfast of Skyr, bananas, and toast with orange cream cheese. The sun was shining and skies were mostly clear. Daddy had gotten up around 4am, unable to sleep any more, and by 8am he was antsy and wanting to get going. Aubrietta said she didn't feel well. I sent Daddy out the door with Kelsey to walk over to the youth hostel to buy the tourist discount cards, which would give us entrance to the municipal pools, unlimited rides on all buses and the ferry, and entrance to most museums and attractions. Just as they were leaving, Aubrietta threw up. "Better buy 3 cards instead of 4," I said, "as it looks like someone may not be going anywhere."
By the time Kelsey and daddy got back, Aubrietta had thrown up a few more times and was passed out on the floor, where she stayed the whole rest of the day. Thank goodness we hadn't booked an all-day bus tour or anything. I was hopeful that everyone would stay well on this trip, but I should have known better. I'm just surprised it wasn't me (yet), as lack of sleep usually wears me down.
Daddy and Kelsey decided to walk to the big pool complex just at the end of our street. I checked on Aubrietta and decided to leave her to rest while I walked them down to the pool. I knew that Kelsey would need help navigating the locker room, as the routine at Icelandic pools was much different than back at our local YMCA pool. First, before you even go into the locker room, you must remove your shoes and leave them in the hallway. No shoes or sandals of any kind are allowed. Next, you go in and find a locker among rows and rows of lockers, all generously sized. You remove ALL of your clothes, put them in a locker, and then carry your towel and swimsuit in hand and head to the showers.
The shower room is immense, with rows and rows of open showers. At the end of the rows are metal grids into which you tuck your towel. Everyone around you is completely naked, or in the process of putting on or taking off a suit. You then shower off, getting soap from a gallon pump bottle in the middle of the shower room. Illustrated diagrams are posted throughout the shower room, reminding you to soap thoroughly certain areas of your body, and everyone is taking this very seriously, sudsing up and scrubbing. Pool staff in white boots are circulating with floor squeegees, eyeing everyone to make sure they are soaping properly.
Scattered throughout the shower room are plastic highchairs for mothers to safely contain their babies, and plastic tubs to sit toddlers in for ease in washing. Of course many of the showers are handheld on a hose, so you can direct the spray and rinse thoroughly. Then, finally, you can put on your swimsuit. You go to the pool, then when you come back you remove your suit, shower again, put your suit in the spinner to get it mostly dry, get your towel, and dry off. There is a big sign at the entrance to the locker room from the shower room reminding you that you must be completely dry before entering the locker room. I had to remind Kelsey of this, since I wouldn't be there when she got out, since I was heading back to Aubrietta.
In addition to the massive outdoor pool complex, including an olympic lap pool with viewing structure, there was also a big indoor lap pool, for year-round swim meets. The pools are not chlorinated (hence the strict hygine rules), but there is a slight sulfur smell.
I walked Kelsey out to the pool deck, me being the only person other than pool staff still clothed (but without shoes, of course!), and handed her off to my husband to supervise. I took a few quick photos of Kelsey in the pool, then headed back to Aubrietta, who was still sleeping.
Kelsey woke up, poor Aubrietta slept on between vomiting sessions, and Daddy decided it was time for his nap, so Kelsey and I headed out for a walk. We ended up walking half an hour to the big Kringlan shopping mall, where we bought some groceries, including gatorade and jello for Aubrietta, and a fresh loaf of bread. We walked through the mall but didn't go into any shops. We bought an ice cream and then walked back home.
Kelsey loved this giant revlovling door at the shopping mall.
Crossing even the busiest streets was easy, as walk signals were at all major intersections, even across highways, and wide bike and walking paths ran parallel to most main streets, with a swath of green separating them from the traffic.
Back home my husband was eager to cook up the Arctic Char. Usually we grill it over coals with alder chips to give it a smoky flavor, but without our grill he decided to pan fry it, and it was just superb. The fish was so buttery and soft, and needed no seasoning, not even salt. Even the potatoes were delicious, made even more so with the naturally bright yellow Icelandic butter made from 100% grass fed cows. Sadly, Aubrietta did not join us for this meal. She had a few sips of gatorade, threw up, and went back to sleep.
After dinner Kelsey and I ventured out again. At the end of our street several apartment houses were under renovation. Nearly all buildings are made of concrete and metal since there isn't any lumber in Iceland. The harsh climate takes it's toll on the building exteriors, and summer is the only time to really make repairs. It was 8 o'clock on a Saturday night and this guy was up on his lift painting trim.
I really wanted to see the Botanical Garden because I was curious about what flora and fauna could actually survive here in Iceland. On our walk there we passed this sculpture, which was about as shocking to Kelsey as the locker room experience that morning. My girls have always been comfortable in their own skin and relatively relaxed about nudity, that is until peer pressure, approaching puberty, and the American middle school locker room scene changed things a bit. As Aubrietta became suddenly shy, Kelsey was quick to follow. This is the first of many, many nude statues the girls will be seeing this summer, and I hope they can get over the "ick" factor and appreciate the beauty of the human form that has so entranced artists for centuries.
Kelsey was almost as excited to see the garden as I was. She kept wishing her teacher was with us because she knew how much she loved plants and gardening. By the way, Kelsey wants her teacher and classmates to know that she is thinking of them!
The rock garden was just stunning. Most of the plantings were not native, but were hardy enough to survive the Reykjavik winters, which are not so much harshy cold, but intensely dark.
It was windy and cold, and these goslings were eager to tuck under their mother's wing for warmth.
The garden had a cafe in a greenhouse that was open every night until 10:00pm. Kelsey loved the little bridge and koi pond.
Because we were a bit chilled, I let Kelsey order a fat oatmeal raisin cookie and a Swiss hot cocoa.
It cost the equivalent of $12.00 US, but it was a delicious and satisfying treat in a beautiful setting. We were saving a lot of money by not staying in a hotel and not eating in restaurants, so it was easy to justify this expense.
The park had some interesting play structures for kids. All the trees you see have been purposefully planted. None are native.
On our way home we passed the campground behind the youth hostel. Brrr. I'm glad we weren't camping!
Every few blocks there seems to be another park or playground. This was a school (different from the one we had met the little girls at the night before). It had some fun springy things, and this giant paved maze.
It was past 10pm when Kelsey and I got back to the apartment. Daddy was ready for bed and Aubrietta was still sleeping. I got Kelsey headed towards bed, and encouraged Aubrietta to sip more fluids before tucking her into bed, bucket nearby. I sure hoped she would be better the next morning. I felt bad for all she had missed today.
NEXT: Day 4, 3rd day in Iceland, Sunday, June 17, Iceland's National Holiday
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